Once relegated to alternative health and wellness stores, mushrooms are now taking center stage in the beauty world. To better understand the fungi phenomenon, we caught up with some of today’s leading skincare experts to get their thoughts on the recent ’shroom boom, including the ingredient’s benefits and the best mushroom skincare products to shop.
by Alyssa Montemurro Last Updated: Mar 23, 2023
Table of Contents
Mushrooms in Skincare: An Origin Story Mushrooms and Their Skincare Benefits Mushroom Skincare: Fungi Fad or Lasting Trend? Shop Our Favorite Mushroom Skincare Products
Mushrooms are everywhere right now. There are mushroom-inspired jewelry pieces and mushroom-embroidered frocks. A Murano mushroom lamp recently took over the Instagram feeds of dozens of influencers, only to cause a fungi frenzy at home décor stores. There’s even a free exhibition at London’s Somerset House dedicated to fungi-inspired art and design, and a shop full of mushroom paraphernalia. But nowhere has the ’shroom boom been felt more acutely than in the beauty industry.
The use of mushrooms in skincare is hardly new — they’ve been used in Eastern cultures for centuries. But they are on the rise, owing to the increased interest in more holistic health and wellness practices amid COVID-19.
“As elevated stress and anxiety continue to drive consumers to seek out solutions in the beauty and wellness worlds, I’ve noticed more and more brands answering these concerns with mushroom-powered products,” Alexia Inge, cofounder and CEO of Cult Beauty, tells us. “These products may include everything from adaptogens like ashwagandha to immunity-boosting reishi or shiitake.”
We also have Origins and its partnership with the celebrated integrative medicine expert Dr. Andrew Weil to thank for this. In 2005 Weil helped formulate the skincare brand’s now celebrated Mega-Mushroom collection of products created to fight inflammation. The line featured formulas infused with a blend of mushrooms, including fermented Chaga and healing reishi.
Fast-forward 15 years later, and mushrooms in skincare products is no longer just a niche trend. From anti-aging serums to health supplements, it feels like not a week goes by where there isn’t a new beauty product with “mushroom” listed in its ingredients. To better understand this fungi phenomenon, we caught up with several skincare experts to get their thoughts on the recent ’shroom boom. Ahead, discover the beauty of mushrooms and the top mushroom skincare products to invest in now for flawless skin.
Mushrooms in Skincare: An Origin Story
Like so many of today’s biggest health and wellness trends, mushrooms have a deep-seated history in Eastern cultures. Traditional Chinese medicine has used mushrooms, specifically the reishi and Cordyceps varieties, for their healing properties for centuries.
“Mushrooms are powerful both internally and externally,” explains Gabe Kennedy, founder of Plant People. “They support both innate and adaptive immunity when ingested, and when applied topically they contain tons of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory properties, which can help the skin’s anti-aging functions.”
“Many mushrooms are also classified as adaptogens, which are ingredients that have long been used in herbal remedies to restore homeostasis to the body,” says Michael Ahmad, senior director of global education at Herbivore. “They do so by extending the resistance stage of the body’s stress response, supporting the normalization of hormone levels and reducing inflammation. When applied topically, those benefits are delivered to the application site. Simply put, mushrooms can help protect the skin from environmental aggressors and restore troubled skin to its peaceful baseline.”
A number of scientific studies and clinical trials confirmed as much. In a 2016 study, doctors found that mushrooms helped combat aging, reduced the severity of inflammatory skin disease, and corrected hyperpigmentation. In another study published in 2019, doctors discovered that beta-glucan, found in mushrooms, helped improve the skin barrier, making it particularly attractive to those with sensitive skin. Further evidence of mushrooms’ benefits came from a 2017 study which found that they contain unusually high amounts of two essential antioxidants that can help fight aging and bolster health.
“Mushrooms occupy that unique intersection between ancient mysticism and progressive biohacking,” says Inge. “It’s like medicine man meets Silicon Valley.” As for the recent rise in mushroom skincare products, it’s all a matter of consumer readiness. “Mushrooms don’t have the instinctual allure of, say, rose,” says Inge. “You have to want to love them based on the evidence.” Thankfully, the evidence abounds.
Mushrooms and Their Skincare Benefits
There are more than 14,000 species of mushrooms in existence today, but not all are safe for consumption or topical use. Some mushrooms are deadly, while others heal and nourish the body. “There is tremendous genetic diversity within the mushroom category, and different extracts excel at different things,” explains Ahmad. “Some hydrate, some brighten, and others soothe. It’s all about aligning with the right mushrooms to treat your core concerns.”
Fortunately we don’t have to sift through every type to determine the best ones for our skin. After years of research and clinical studies, scientists can now determine the safest types for our complexions and the key benefits they provide. However, as celebrity dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross notes, “One of the most important things to look for in skincare products using mushrooms as an ingredient is the delivery system. Mushrooms must be formulated in a delivery system that allows them to actually penetrate the skin. You can’t just rub maitake mushrooms on your face. Encapsulating the mushroom increases its penetration into the skin’s deep layers and absorption through the cell membranes.” The result? More effective skincare.
Below, discover six of the most popular mushroom varieties being touted by skincare experts and the unique beauty benefits they provide.
Chaga Mushrooms
Good for: neutralizing free radicals, promoting a healthier, more even skin tone
Chaga mushrooms are one of the most popular varieties used in the beauty industry today, and for good reason. Proven three times more effective at fighting free radicals than acai berries, these potent fungi are among “one of the most antioxidant-rich foods in the world,” claims Kennedy. It’s those high levels of antioxidants that, according to Gross, enables them to “neutralize free radicals and have anti-inflammatory properties to help increase blood circulation. This ultimately helps ensure an even skin tone and increased nutrient delivery to the skin.”
Cordyceps Mushrooms
Good for: anti-inflammatory and antioxidant benefits
Traditionally regarded as an energy- and stamina-boosting ingredient, Cordyceps have proven antioxidant effects when applied topically. Gross says this ancient mushroom possesses anti-inflammatory properties that “stem from its ability to positively affect the immune system by fighting oxidative stress.” In other words, it’s a bit of a multipurpose ’shroom. As such, it’s used in many skincare products today, specifically to hydrate skin, boost collagen and elastin production, and soothe inflammatory skin conditions.
Reishi Mushrooms
Good for: improved barrier function, soothing inflammation, anti-wrinkle benefits
“We love reishi and use it in all of our topical skincare formulas,” raves Moon Juice founder Amanda Chantal Bacon. “This adaptogenic super-mushroom supports the skin’s resilience against stressors, soothes skin, locks in moisture, and improves barrier function. Anyone that has stressed, sensitive skin can benefit from reishi.” Adds Kennedy, “Reishi is the queen of mushrooms. It has historically been used to promote longevity, but when applied topically it is known to cool inflammation and redness with its anti-inflammatory properties. It also possesses strong anti-wrinkle benefits.”
Shiitake Mushrooms
Good for: fading dark spots and scars, evening skin tone, brightening the skin
Shiitake, one of the most readily eaten mushrooms, contains an array of beauty benefits. Composed of high levels of kojic acid, shiitakes are “a phenomenal option for evening skin tone,” says Ahmad. As such, the ingredient is often used in beauty products to help brighten the skin, fade dark spots and acne scars, and treat hyperpigmentation.
Tremella Mushrooms
Good for: increased hydration and skin-plumping effects
Also known as snow mushroom and silver ear mushroom, tremellas are spongy, translucent ’shrooms with hydration-boosting benefits. “If you struggle with chronic dehydration, products featuring tremella, like Herbivore’s Pink Cloud Cleanser, are a great option,” says Ahmad. “Tremella can attract and retain up to 500 times its weight in water, making it a highly effective humectant/hydrator.”
“We use silver ear mushrooms in both our topical skincare and supplement formulas to help hydrate and reduce the appearance of lines,” Bacon says. “Silver ear mushrooms attract and lock water into the skin by forming a protective barrier to prevent water loss. Its small molecular structure gives it the ability to go deep into the skin, where it provides lasting hydration and plumping effects.”
Trametes Versicolor Mushrooms
Good for: antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits, increased blood flow
Often referred to as “turkey tail,” trametes versicolor is a common polypore mushroom known in holistic health communities to be a powerful immune booster. Though not as frequently used in beauty products, their high antioxidant levels and unique composition make them one of the more interesting ’shrooms lining beauty shelves today. Their medicinal magic lies in a compound called polysaccharide K (PSK), which “helps stimulate the immune system and reduce inflammation,” says Gross. “This allows for better blood flow and improved cellular DNA” (aka younger-looking skin).
Mushroom Skincare: Fungi Fad or Lasting Trend?
There’s no denying we’re in the midst of a major ’shroom boom. But is it the way of the future or just another passing ingredient trend?
“There’s clear growth in [internet] searches for certain types of mushrooms/fungi such as ashwagandha, chaga, Cordyceps, reishi, and snow mushroom,” says Inge. “When you start to see specialized searches like that, as opposed to something like ‘mushrooms in skincare,’ it’s a clear indicator that interest is growing in that category.”
Increased searches or not, Inge believes in the skincare benefits of mushrooms. “They are a supereffective and sustainable ingredient with a broad range of benefits that can be felt quickly. As we study the species more through a wellness lens, find better growing and extraction techniques, and understand the companion benefits of using mushrooms with other ingredients, I can only imagine this trend mushrooming!”
It appears Inge isn’t alone in her thinking. Proliferation of mushroom skincare products aside, many brands seem to agree that mushrooms are here for the long haul. “We don’t see mushrooms in skincare as a trend,” says Bacon. “We’re just beginning to tap into the benefits of what mushrooms can do.”
“Mushrooms are experiencing a major moment right now, but they’ve been a part of beauty recipes and product formulations for hundreds, perhaps even thousands, of years,” says Ahmad. “But as the public has become more savvy at reading ingredient lists, they’ve learned the difference between cheap fillers and high-performance flora. Perhaps this is why these natural superstars are taking center stage: They have a long and well-substantiated narrative of natural efficacy, which is precisely what consumers are looking for. Suffice it to say mushrooms are here to stay!”